October 22, 2010
October means cooler Friday night lights, fall foliage, and hearing myths about saving energy during the winter months. How many of these popular energy myths shared by Texas utility Reliant Energy have you heard?
Myth #1: Heating systems need less maintenance than air conditioning.
Professional maintenance for your furnace or heat pump every year can prolong the life of your system and save energy.
Myth #2: Keeping your windows covered improves efficiency.
During the cooler fall and winter months, open curtains during the day to allow sunlight to naturally heat your home; close them at night to help keep that natural heat inside.
Myth #3: Using a fireplace is an efficient way to heat your home.
A nice fire in the fireplace is great on a chilly evening, but it is not the most efficient way to heat your home. Even more importantly, leaving the chimney flue open all the time sends the warm air in your house straight up the chimney. Be sure to close the damper after the fire dies out or you turn off the gas.
Myth #4: Set it and forget it. Keep your thermostat on the same setting all year long.
A programmable thermostat is a great way to keep comfortable and save energy. But, you need to set it appropriately for the season. Keeping your thermostat at the same temperature all year long, regardless of time
of day or year, can impact your electricity bill. If you have a programmable thermostat, change the setting for winter so that the temperature decreases during the day when you are away from home and warms up just before you return in the evening.
Myth #5: You only need to change your air filter when you’re using your air conditioner.
Check your air filters at least once a month. Regularly replacing dirty filters helps your heating and air conditioning system run better and last longer. Check your filter(s) every time you receive your monthly electricity statement.
A service of YellowBrix, Inc.
Read more: http://www.houselogic.com/news/articles/right-ways-save-energy-during-cooler-weather/#ixzz13tShi1XG
Food, Entertainment, and Arts
Saturday, October 30, 2010
101 Things I Love about Portland Maine
128. Tandoor Indian Restaurant on Exchange Street in Portland--- Delicious food in pleasant colorful surroundings--.
We tried the mango chicken and a combo appetizer plate. Everything was prepared well and very tasty. The nan bread was puffy and plentiful. The tea was called massala and was so good we bought some to try at home. See their menu:
http://www.allmenus.com/me/portland/40204-tandoor-fine-indian-cuisine/menu/
http://www.allmenus.com/me/portland/40204-tandoor-fine-indian-cuisine/menu/
Friday, October 29, 2010
Fix Wet Basement Problems
By: Rich Binsacca
Published: October 29, 2010
Fix wet basement problems and keep moisture from wrecking your new basement remodel.
Investment High $2,000-$6,000 (install sump pump)
If water can't be diverted on the outside, it must be pumped out from the inside with an interior drain system.
A wet basement remodel is worse than no basement remodel at all. So before you add livable space below where you live, be sure to fix wet basement problems.
What’s the water source
If your basement smells musty, looks moldy, or sports little puddles after every rain, you’ve got a wet basement problem. Long-term dampness will damage trim and finishes, and erode framing and foundations—problems that would cost thousands to fix. In addition, damp basements promote mold and mildew, which can harm your health.
Moisture in a wet basement comes from three main sources:
Groundwater: Lives within pockets beneath the earth’s surface; can seep through unsealed concrete slabs, form puddles, or just cause that wet basement feel.
Precipitation: Rain, snow, sleet, and melted hail that flow into basements under doors or through poorly sealed windows.
Hydrostatic pressure: Water-soaked soil that pushes moisture through walls and floors and produces a wet basement.
Fix a wet basement’s water woes
The best way to stop water flow into your basement is to solve the root cause. Sometimes the solution is easy, like extending downspouts or grading property so water runs away from your house.
Sometimes it’s harder to fix wet basement problems.
If your wet basement is caused by hydrostatic pressure, excavate around the foundation’s perimeter and install a drainage system and waterproofing membrane. These reduce pressure against the structure and blocks water from seeping through the walls and causing a wet basement. A professional can do the job for $5,000 or more.
If you can’t afford the outside-in water treatment for your wet basement, solve the problem from the inside out. Working from inside your basement, cover all foundation cracks, framing joints, and floors with a brush-on, waterproofing sealant. This DIY project typically costs $1,700 for a 20-by-30-foot basement.
Sump pumps to the rescue
A sump pump, which removes water from a sump pit in the ground, is your best defense against seeping groundwater or minor floods. (If major floods are frequent problems, don’t finish your basement.)
When the sump pit fills, the pump automatically engages and shoots water into drains or other areas that flow away from the house. Professional installation, including wiring to a dedicated circuit, costs $2,000 to $6,000. Always keep a battery-powered, backup pump around ($300) in case the power goes out during a storm.
Rich Binsacca is the author of 12 books on home-related topics and a contributing editor for Builder and EcoHome magazines. He has written articles for Remodeling, Home, and Architectural Record magazines.
Read more: http://www.houselogic.com/articles/fix-wet-basement-problems/#ixzz13nhlVZJd
Published: October 29, 2010
Fix wet basement problems and keep moisture from wrecking your new basement remodel.
Investment High $2,000-$6,000 (install sump pump)
If water can't be diverted on the outside, it must be pumped out from the inside with an interior drain system.
A wet basement remodel is worse than no basement remodel at all. So before you add livable space below where you live, be sure to fix wet basement problems.
What’s the water source
If your basement smells musty, looks moldy, or sports little puddles after every rain, you’ve got a wet basement problem. Long-term dampness will damage trim and finishes, and erode framing and foundations—problems that would cost thousands to fix. In addition, damp basements promote mold and mildew, which can harm your health.
Moisture in a wet basement comes from three main sources:
Groundwater: Lives within pockets beneath the earth’s surface; can seep through unsealed concrete slabs, form puddles, or just cause that wet basement feel.
Precipitation: Rain, snow, sleet, and melted hail that flow into basements under doors or through poorly sealed windows.
Hydrostatic pressure: Water-soaked soil that pushes moisture through walls and floors and produces a wet basement.
Fix a wet basement’s water woes
The best way to stop water flow into your basement is to solve the root cause. Sometimes the solution is easy, like extending downspouts or grading property so water runs away from your house.
Sometimes it’s harder to fix wet basement problems.
If your wet basement is caused by hydrostatic pressure, excavate around the foundation’s perimeter and install a drainage system and waterproofing membrane. These reduce pressure against the structure and blocks water from seeping through the walls and causing a wet basement. A professional can do the job for $5,000 or more.
If you can’t afford the outside-in water treatment for your wet basement, solve the problem from the inside out. Working from inside your basement, cover all foundation cracks, framing joints, and floors with a brush-on, waterproofing sealant. This DIY project typically costs $1,700 for a 20-by-30-foot basement.
Sump pumps to the rescue
A sump pump, which removes water from a sump pit in the ground, is your best defense against seeping groundwater or minor floods. (If major floods are frequent problems, don’t finish your basement.)
When the sump pit fills, the pump automatically engages and shoots water into drains or other areas that flow away from the house. Professional installation, including wiring to a dedicated circuit, costs $2,000 to $6,000. Always keep a battery-powered, backup pump around ($300) in case the power goes out during a storm.
Rich Binsacca is the author of 12 books on home-related topics and a contributing editor for Builder and EcoHome magazines. He has written articles for Remodeling, Home, and Architectural Record magazines.
Read more: http://www.houselogic.com/articles/fix-wet-basement-problems/#ixzz13nhlVZJd
101 Things I Love about Portland Maine
Monday, October 18, 2010
101 Things I Love about Portland Maine
Words of Wisdom from Emily
If you are ever on a horse, keep your back straight and hold on for the ride!
101 Things I Love about Portland Maine
126. I have been wanting to try the restaurant on Congress Square called Boda for a while. It has a very nice minimalist atmosphere with pleasant staff. We sat near the bar. They have a great selection of Asian and stirfry dishes and fresh specialty salads. Linda tried one with Granny Smith apples and shrimp.
I had a noodle dish with chicken and veggies that had been stirfried.
We shared a pig pot of peppermint tea.
The service was quick and the whole experience very enjoyable.
(207) 879-4089 - Portland, ME 04101-3303,
I had a noodle dish with chicken and veggies that had been stirfried.
We shared a pig pot of peppermint tea.
The service was quick and the whole experience very enjoyable.
(207) 879-4089 - Portland, ME 04101-3303,
101 Things I Love About Portland Maine
http://www.sianosbrickoven.com/
Thursday, October 14, 2010
Attic Insulation Saves You Money
By: Jeanne Huber
Published: September 21, 2010
Add attic insulation to lower heating and cooling costs by as much as $600 per year.
Save Money Med $100-$600 off heating/cooling
Effort Low 1-2 days
Investment Med $1,500 (pro install)
Blanket-type insulation comes in 15- or 23-inch widths. It's designed to fit with typical framing. Image: Owens Corning
Save about $600 per year by boosting the amount of attic insulation from R-11 to R-49. Depending on the type of materials you use, figure on paying an insulation contractor about $1,500 to insulate an 800-square-foot attic, which pays back your investment in three years. You’ll spend about half that to do the job yourself.
Do you need more attic insulation?
A good, quick way to check if you need insulation is to look across your attic floor. If the existing insulation comes up just to the tops of the joists, then you probably need to add insulation. If you can’t see the joists and the insulation is well above the tops of the joists, you’re probably okay and you won’t recoup the cost of adding more.
Types of attic insulation
Add insulation to your attic one of three ways:
Roll-on or blanket-type insulation comes as rolls of fiberglass batts, either 15 or 23 inches wide—designed to fit between the width of typical framing. If your attic already has some insulation in the attic floor, roll out the batts at right angles to insulate over the framing members.
If you’re doing the job yourself, blanket-type material is easiest to work with. Be careful not to compress it or it won’t be as effective.
Loose-fill or blown-in insulation requires a machine that shoots a stream of loose-fill cellulose over the existing attic floor framing. This is typically a job for an insulation contractor. The advantage is that loose-fill insulation does a great job of filling in small crevices and other hard-to-reach areas.
Sprayed foam polyurethane is a good choice if you plan to turn your attic into a finished room. In that case, you’ll want to insulate the roof—not the floor. Sprayed foam polyurethane molds to rafters, blocks water vapor, and has a high R-rating per inch. Expect to pay about double the per-square-foot cost of roll-on and loose-fill insulation.
How much attic insulation is enough?
To determine how much to add, look up the recommended amount for your area, then subtract the value of your existing insulation. If you don’t know, you can figure it out using the Home Energy Saver online energy audit tool.
No matter which method you choose, federal tax credits of up to $1,500 are available until the end of 2010.
Jeanne Huber is the author of 10 books about home improvement and writes a weekly column about home care for the Washington Post.
Read more: http://www.houselogic.com/articles/attic-insulation-saves-you-money/#ixzz12KaSkGOA
Published: September 21, 2010
Add attic insulation to lower heating and cooling costs by as much as $600 per year.
Save Money Med $100-$600 off heating/cooling
Effort Low 1-2 days
Investment Med $1,500 (pro install)
Blanket-type insulation comes in 15- or 23-inch widths. It's designed to fit with typical framing. Image: Owens Corning
Save about $600 per year by boosting the amount of attic insulation from R-11 to R-49. Depending on the type of materials you use, figure on paying an insulation contractor about $1,500 to insulate an 800-square-foot attic, which pays back your investment in three years. You’ll spend about half that to do the job yourself.
Do you need more attic insulation?
A good, quick way to check if you need insulation is to look across your attic floor. If the existing insulation comes up just to the tops of the joists, then you probably need to add insulation. If you can’t see the joists and the insulation is well above the tops of the joists, you’re probably okay and you won’t recoup the cost of adding more.
Types of attic insulation
Add insulation to your attic one of three ways:
Roll-on or blanket-type insulation comes as rolls of fiberglass batts, either 15 or 23 inches wide—designed to fit between the width of typical framing. If your attic already has some insulation in the attic floor, roll out the batts at right angles to insulate over the framing members.
If you’re doing the job yourself, blanket-type material is easiest to work with. Be careful not to compress it or it won’t be as effective.
Loose-fill or blown-in insulation requires a machine that shoots a stream of loose-fill cellulose over the existing attic floor framing. This is typically a job for an insulation contractor. The advantage is that loose-fill insulation does a great job of filling in small crevices and other hard-to-reach areas.
Sprayed foam polyurethane is a good choice if you plan to turn your attic into a finished room. In that case, you’ll want to insulate the roof—not the floor. Sprayed foam polyurethane molds to rafters, blocks water vapor, and has a high R-rating per inch. Expect to pay about double the per-square-foot cost of roll-on and loose-fill insulation.
How much attic insulation is enough?
To determine how much to add, look up the recommended amount for your area, then subtract the value of your existing insulation. If you don’t know, you can figure it out using the Home Energy Saver online energy audit tool.
No matter which method you choose, federal tax credits of up to $1,500 are available until the end of 2010.
Jeanne Huber is the author of 10 books about home improvement and writes a weekly column about home care for the Washington Post.
Read more: http://www.houselogic.com/articles/attic-insulation-saves-you-money/#ixzz12KaSkGOA
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Sunday, October 10, 2010
101 Things I Love about Portland Maine
101 Things I Love about Portland Maine
Friday, October 8, 2010
Composting Leaves
Sunday, October 3, 2010
101 Things I Love about Portland Maine
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